The complete Saint Laurent Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear fashion show, immortalized on Vogue Runway, remains a pivotal moment in the house's history, marking the debut of Anthony Vaccarello as creative director. His first collection for the iconic brand wasn't just a presentation; it was a statement, a bold declaration of intent that simultaneously honored the legacy of Yves Saint Laurent and projected the label into a thrilling new era. This deep dive into the Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2018 collection explores its key themes, influences, and enduring impact on the fashion landscape.
Before diving into the specifics, it's crucial to understand the context. Hedi Slimane's tenure at Saint Laurent, though commercially successful, had sparked significant debate. His ultra-skinny silhouettes and rock-and-roll aesthetic, while undeniably stylish, had arguably strayed from the core values of Yves Saint Laurent's original vision. Vaccarello, with his background rooted in a sophisticated understanding of both high fashion and contemporary trends, was tasked with navigating this complex legacy. His challenge was to create a collection that resonated with the brand's history while forging a distinctly modern path.
The Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2018 collection, viewed through the lens of time, appears as a masterful balancing act. It wasn't a radical departure, but rather a considered evolution. Vaccarello skillfully integrated elements of Saint Laurent's past into a contemporary framework, resulting in a collection that felt both familiar and refreshingly new. The show itself, meticulously staged, further amplified this duality. The stark, minimalist setting allowed the clothes to speak for themselves, emphasizing their inherent power and elegance.
The Silhouette: A Modern Take on Classic Saint Laurent
One of the most striking aspects of the collection was its unwavering focus on the female form. While Slimane's era often favoured extreme thinness, Vaccarello opted for a more inclusive, yet still undeniably glamorous, approach. He celebrated the feminine silhouette, not through restrictive garments, but through a skillful interplay of tailoring and sensual cuts. The collection featured a range of silhouettes, from sharply tailored jackets and trousers that evoked the power dressing of Yves Saint Laurent's heyday, to flowing, sensual dresses that showcased a newfound appreciation for fluidity and movement.
The iconic Saint Laurent tuxedo suit, a cornerstone of the brand's heritage, was reimagined for the modern woman. Vaccarello maintained the suit's inherent sophistication but infused it with a contemporary edge, often opting for cropped jackets and high-waisted trousers. This subtle tweak resulted in a look that was both powerful and undeniably sexy, perfectly encapsulating the collection's overall aesthetic.
The Color Palette: A Study in Contrast
The color palette of the Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2018 collection was equally compelling. While classic black remained a dominant force, Vaccarello introduced pops of vibrant color, often strategically placed to create a sense of playful contrast. Deep reds, bold yellows, and striking blues added a sense of energy and vibrancy to the collection, balancing the inherent sophistication of the black pieces. This juxtaposition of darkness and light, of classic and modern, was a recurring theme throughout the show.
The strategic use of color also highlighted the collection's diverse range of textures. The deep reds, for example, often appeared on luxurious velvet pieces, while the lighter shades were frequently used on crisp cottons and silks. This interplay of color and texture further enriched the collection's overall visual impact, creating a sense of depth and complexity that is often missing in more simplistic collections.
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